Complete guide home wiring pdf

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Howard Callahan. Terri Eever. Melvin Esguerra. More From geckx. Common recessed fixtures include electric blower-heaters left , bathroom vent fans right , and recessed light fixtures. Install the frames for these fixtures at the same time you are installing the other electrical boxes along the circuit. Surface-mounted fixtures such as electric baseboard heaters pages to and under-cabinet fluorescent lights pages to also have built-in wire connection boxes. These fixtures are not installed until it is time to make the final hookups.

Standard Position each box against a stud so the front face will be receptacle boxes should be centered 12" above floor level. Anchor the box by driving the mounting nails into the stud. Use adapter plates that and screwdriver. Always introduce the rotating a screwdriver in the knockout. Nail the ends of the brace bar to joists so the face of the box for a mirror or medicine cabinet. Place will be flush with the finished ceiling surface.

Slide the box along the brace bar to the the box for a ceiling light fixture in the desired position, and then tighten the mounting screws. Use internal cable clamps center of the room. Position each box when using a box with a brace bar. The box for a thermostat is mounted at 48" to 60".

Position the box on the cross block so the front face will be Position each box against the side of a stud so the front face flush with the finished wall, and drive the mounting nails into will be flush with the finished wall, and drive the mounting nails the cross block.

In the kitchen shown here, boxes above the countertop are 45" above the floor, in the center of 18" backsplashes that extend from the countertop to the cabinets. All boxes for wall switches also are installed at this height. The center of the box for the microwave receptacle is 72" off the floor. The centers of the boxes for the range and food disposer receptacles are 12" off the floor, but the center of the box for the dishwasher receptacle is 6" off the floor.

Code requires that the front face of boxes be flush with the finished wall surface, so how you install boxes will vary depending on the type of wall finish that will be used.

The easiest way will support heavy chandeliers and ceiling fans. A remodeling to install one is by nailing the brace to open ceiling joists brace such as the one seen here is designed to install through from above. If the ceiling is insulated, pull the insulation away a small cutout in the ceiling inset photo. Open one knockout for each cable that will enter the box Test for power. Carefully remove any tape or wire connectors using a hammer and screwdriver. Any unopened knockouts from the exposed slice.

Disconnect the illegally spliced wires. Tighten the clamp with a box, and screw a locknut onto each or nails. See if there is any slack in cable clamp. Locknut 6 7 Grounding screw 8 Lugs Cover plate Tighten the locknuts by pushing Use wire connectors to reconnect Carefully tuck the wires into the box, against the lugs with the blade of the wires. Pigtail the copper grounding and attach the cover plate. Turn on the a screwdriver.

Make sure the box remains accessible and is not concealed by finished walls or ceilings. You also may find that an older switch or receptacle box is too shallow to accommodate a new dimmer or GFCI safely.

A pop-in box typically has wings, tabs, or brackets that are drawn tight against the wall surface on the wall cavity side, holding the box in place. It can be made either of metal or plastic. For walls, they include plastic retrofit boxes with flip-out wings A , metal or plastic boxes with compression tabs or Screwdriver Wallboard saw brackets B , metal retrofit boxes with flip-out wings C , and Pencil Template if provided metal boxes with bendable brackets, also known as F-straps, String Plastic or metal pop-in box D.

For ceilings, plastic fixture boxes with flip-out wings E Electrical tape Eye protection are available. Shut off power and they fall into the wall cavity when the old box is removed. Identify the location Disconnect the cable clamps and slide the old box out. Install a of nails holding the box to the framing member and cut the new pop-in box see next page.

If no of a wallboard saw or by drilling a small the box no cable clamp is required with template is provided, press the pop-in hole inside the lines, and make the a plastic box; just be sure not to break box against the wall surface and trace cutout for the box.

Variation: Feed cable into the new Tighten the screws that cause the flip-out wings to pivot right until the box is held box and secure it in the opening after firmly in place. Connect the switch or receptacle that the box will house. With this pop-in box, bracket arms are inserted at the sides of the box top and then bent around the front edges to secure the box in the opening bottom. The main panel may be found in the basement, garage, amp Service Panel utility area, or on an exterior wall and can be identified by its metal casing.

Before making any repair to your electrical system, you must shut off power to the correct circuit at the main panel or at the subpanel where the circuit begins. Every circuit in every panel should be labeled see page 22 so circuits can be identified easily.

Panels vary in appearance, depending on the age of the system. Very old wiring may operate on amp service that has only two circuits. New homes can have up to amp service with 30 or more circuits.

Find the size of the service by reading the amperage rating printed on the main fuse block or main circuit breakers. Regardless of age, all panels have fuses or circuit breakers see pages 78 to 81 that protect each circuit from overloads.

In general, older service panels use fuses, while newer panels use circuit breakers. In addition to the main panel, your electrical system may have one or more subpanels that protect some of the circuits in the home.

A subpanel has its own circuit breakers or fuses. The subpanel resembles the main service panel but is usually smaller. It may be located near the main panel, or it may be found near the areas served by the new circuits. Garages and basements that have been updated often have their own subpanels. If your home has subpanels, make sure that their circuits are indexed correctly. When handling fuses or circuit breakers, make sure the area around the panel is dry.

Never remove the protective cover on the panel. After turning off a circuit to make electrical repairs, remember to always test the circuit for power before touching any wires. The main panel is the heart of your wiring system. As our demand for household energy has increased, the panels have also grown in capacity. Today, a amp panel is often installed in new construction. Many homebuilders are installing dual amp panels to deliver amps to larger houses.

A pair of amp panels is much cheaper than one amp panel. A circuit breaker panel is housed in a gray metal cabinet that contains two rows of individual circuit breakers. You can determine service size by reading the amperage rating of the main circuit breakers. In systems rated amps and below, the main breaker is often located in the main panel, but it may be in a separate cabinet located elsewhere.

Larger new homes may have or amp service. These systems usually have two main circuit breakers in the main panel and at least one subpanel. A amp service panel is now the minimum standard for all new housing. It is adequate for a medium-sized house with no more than three major electric appliances. However, larger houses with more electrical appliances require a service panel that provides amps or more.

Panel index To shut off power to individual circuits Circuit breaker in a circuit breaker panel, flip the lever on the appropriate circuit breaker to the OFF position. To shut off the power to the entire house, turn the main circuit breakers to the OFF position.

It usually is housed in a gray metal cabinet that contains four individual plug fuses, plus one or two pull-out fuse blocks that hold cartridge fuses. A amp panel is considered undersized by current standards. The system should be upgraded for both convenience and safety. Insurance companies and mortgage lenders may require a complete electrical system upgrade before issuing a homeowner insurance policy or approving mortgage financing.

To shut off power to a circuit, carefully unscrew the plug fuse, touching only its insulated rim. To shut off power to the entire house, hold the handle of the main fuse block and pull sharply to remove it. Major appliance circuits are controlled with another cartridge fuse block.

Shut off the appliance circuit by pulling out this fuse block. It divides the current into touching any parts inside the panel. Never touch the branch circuits that are carried throughout the house. If unsure of your own skills, hire an Each branch circuit is protected by a circuit breaker electrician to make the final circuit connections. If that protects the wires from dangerous current you have an older electrical service with fuses instead overloads.

When installing new circuits, the last step of circuit breakers, always have an electrician make is to connect the wires to new circuit breakers at the these final hookups.

Follow basic safety procedures and always shut volt branch Grounding conductor circuits leads to metal grounding rods driven into the earth or to other grounding electrodes. These wires are always HOT. Neutral service wire carries current back to the power source after Grounding bus bar has it has passed through terminals for linking the home. It is bonded to the neutral bus bar. Main circuit breaker protects the panelboard Two hot bus bars run from overloads and through the center of disconnects power to the panel, supplying all circuits in power to the circuit the panel.

Each carries volts. Neutral bus bar has setscrew terminals for linking all neutral Subpanel feeder circuit wires to the breaker is a neutral service wire. Never touch any parts inside a circuit breaker Otherwise, you will need to install a subpanel. Circuit breaker panels differ in appearance, electrical service to make sure it provides enough depending on the manufacturer.

Never begin work in current to support both the existing wiring and any new a circuit breaker panel until you understand its layout circuits. If your service does not provide enough current, and can identify the parts. Circuit breaker subpanel can be Neutral bus bar installed when the main circuit has setscrew Grounding bus bar has breaker panel does not have enough termi nals for setscrew terminals space to hold circuit breakers for new linking neutral for connecting circuit circuits you want to install.

Neutral feeder wire connects the neutral bus bar in the subpanel to the neutral volt isolated bus bar in ground circuit the main service panel. Each neutral wire connection; the white wire controlled by a carries volts of power. Fuses and circuit breakers are located in the main service panel and in subpanels.

GFCI Most service panels installed before rely circuit on fuses to protect individual circuits. Screw-in plug breaker fuses protect volt circuits that power lights and receptacles. Cartridge fuses protect volt appliance circuits and the main shutoff of the service panel. Inside each fuse is a current-carrying metal alloy ribbon. If a circuit is overloaded, the metal ribbon melts and stops the current flow.

A fuse must match the amperage rating of the circuit. Never replace a AFCI circuit amp breaker double-pole fuse with one that has a larger amperage rating.

Single-pole circuit Circuit breakers are found in the majority of panels installed breakers protect volt circuits, and double-pole since the s. Single-pole breakers control volt circuits. Double-pole breakers rated for 20 to 60 amps control volt circuit breakers protect volt circuits. Amperage circuits. Ground-fault circuit interrupter GFCI provides ratings for circuit breakers range from 15 to amps.

Arc-fault circuit interrupter AFCI Each circuit breaker has a permanent metal strip breakers provide protection from fire-causing arcs for the that heats up and bends when current passes through entire circuit. Circuit breakers are listed to trip twice. After the second trip they weaken and tend to nuisance trip at lower currents. Replace breakers that have tripped more than twice—they may fail.

When a fuse blows or a circuit breaker trips, it is usually because there are too many light fixtures and plug-in appliances drawing power through the circuit. Move some of the plug-in appliances to another circuit, and then replace the fuse or reset the breaker.

If the fuse blows or the breaker trips again immediately, there may be a short circuit in the system. Call a licensed electrician if you suspect a short circuit. Plug fuses usually control volt circuits rated for 15, 20, or 30 amps. Tamper-proof plug fuses have threads that fit only matching sockets, Edison adapter making it impossible to install a wrong-sized fuse.

Time-delay fuses absorb temporary heavy power loads without blowing. Be sure to screw the fuse into the adapter first, and then screw the assembly into the socket. If the metal ribbon Unscrew the fuse, being careful to touch only the insulated inside is cleanly melted left , the circuit was overloaded. If rim of the fuse. Replace it with a fuse that has the same window is discolored right , there was a short circuit.

If the tester glows, the fuse is pulling sharply. If not, install a new fuse with the same amperage rating. The lever on the by pressing the circuit breaker lever all by pushing the TEST button. If not, position or in a position between ON pressing it to the ON position.

After this is done, the work is ready for the final inspection. Circuits are connected at the main panel, if it has enough open slots, or at a circuit breaker subpanel see pages 74— When working at a subpanel, make sure the feeder breaker at the main panel has been turned off, and test for power see photo, right before touching any parts in the subpanel. Make sure the circuit breaker amperage does Setscrew terminals not exceed the ampacity of the circuit wires you are connecting to it.

Also be aware that circuit breaker styles and installation techniques vary according Neutral bus bar to manufacturer. Use breakers made by the panel manufacturer. You should install AFCI circuit breakers for most and amp, volt circuits inside the home.

With the main breaker turned off but all other breakers turned on, touch one probe of a neon tester to the Screwdriver Circuit tester neutral bus bar, and touch the other probe to each setscrew Hammer Pliers on one of the double-pole breakers not the main breaker.

If the tester does not light for either setscrew, it is safe to work in Pencil Cable clamps the panel. Strip the cable from the marked Remove the panel cover plate, taking line to the end using a cable ripper.

There care not to touch the parts inside the should be 18" to 24" of excess cable. Test for power photo, top. Insert the cable through the clamp and into the service panel, and then tighten the clamp. Insert the wire to an open setscrew terminal on the panel to an open setscrew terminal on into the setscrew terminal on a new grounding bus bar.

Insert the wire the neutral bus bar. Fold excess wire from the wire using a combination around the inside edge of the panel. Insert the wire into the terminal opening, and tighten the setscrew.

Connect white wire to the room for the new circuit breaker. A into place. Breaker installation may vary, neutral bus bar, and the grounding single-pole breaker requires one tab, depending on the manufacturer. Fold wire to grounding bus bar. For volt while a double-pole breaker requires excess black wire around the inside circuits bottom , attach white and two tabs. Reattach the cover plate, and edge of the panel. There is no neutral bus bar connection on this circuit. Even brand-new switches can fail to function correctly.

This is why most professional electricians will pay the extra couple of dollars to buy a quality switch out of the gate. It is also why most of them routinely test each switch for continuity before installing it see pages 98 to The most basic switches for home wiring are single-pole switches, which control only one fixture and have only two screw or push-in terminals not counting the grounding screw.

Next, three-way switches and four-way switches have more installation possibilities and control circuits that are more complicated to wire.

Dimmer switches, isolated ground switches, and motion-sensor switches are some of the other switch options. Use caution when you handle switches. The wires are usually attached to screw terminals on the sides of the fitting, which makes them very easy to contact if you grab the switch.

Always shut off the power to the switch before removing the switch cover plate. Also shut off the power at the service panel if you will be working downline from the switch—never count on a switch that is open to function as a breaker. Because switches receive constant use, wire connections can loosen and existing switches show wiring that does not comply with these new requirements.

This is because you will probably see non-compliant wiring for many years to switch parts gradually wear out. If a switch no longer come. Pictures and instructions about installing new operates smoothly, it must be replaced. When working on a switch, use the insulation should not supply current to a light or photographs on pages 86 to to identify your switch receptacle, even when the wire is marked as hot.

A type and its wiring configuration. Individual switch black or red colored wire should supply current to styles may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but the device.

A white colored wire, marked as hot, may the basic switch types are universal. It is possible to replace most ordinary wall switches The other change requires that a neutral wire with a specialty switch, such as a timer switch or an be available at switch boxes. An exception allows electronic switch. When installing a specialty switch, you to ignore this requirement if the switch box make sure it is compatible with the wiring configuration is accessible from above or below, such as from a and size of the switch box.

Notice: Two changes in the basement, crawlspace, or attic. This new requirement NEC affect how new switch wiring should be installed. The as intelligent switch controllers, that need power for pictures and instructions in this book about replacing controller operation. Ground terminal Metal arm Screw terminals Power out Power in Switch housing cut away for clarity A typical wall switch has a movable metal arm that opens and closes the electrical circuit.

When the switch is ON, the arm completes the circuit and power flows between the screw terminals and through the black hot wire to the light fixture. When the switch is OFF, the arm lifts away to interrupt the circuit, and no power flows. Switch problems can occur if the screw terminals are not tight or if the metal arm inside the switch wears out.

Many in the s. This early design has a and The handle is twisted switches of this type are still in operation. The Reproductions of this switch type are ceramic housing sealed with a layer of switch is enclosed in a ceramic housing.

Toggle switches were improved Mercury switches became common Electronic motion-sensor switches during the s and are now the most in the early s. They conduct have an infrared eye that senses commonly used type. This switch type electrical current by means of a sealed movement and automatically turns on was the first to use a sealed plastic vial of mercury. No longer manufactured lights when a person enters a room.

To re-connect or replace a switch, it is important to identify its type. Most switches include a grounding screw terminal, which is identified by its green color. Single-pole switches are used to control a set of When replacing a switch, choose a new switch lights from one location.

Three-way switches are used that has the same number of screw terminals as the to control a set of lights from two different locations old one.

The location of the screws on the switch and are always installed in pairs. Four-way switches body varies depending on the manufacturer, but these are used in combination with a pair of three-way differences will not affect the switch operation. Some Identify switch types by counting the screw specialty switches pages 94 to 97 have wire leads terminals.

Single-pole switches have two screw instead of screw terminals. They are connected to terminals, three-way switches have three screw circuit wires with wire connectors. A wall switch is connected to circuit wires with screw terminals or with push-in fittings on the back of the switch.

A switch may have a stamped strip gauge that indicates how much insulation must be stripped from the circuit wires to make the connections. The switch body is attached to a Push-in fittings metal mounting strap that allows it to be mounted in an electrical box.

Several Grounding screw rating stamps are found on the strap and on the back of the switch. LIST means that the voltage ratings gauge rating switch meets the safety standards of the Underwriters Laboratories. Switches also are stamped with maximum voltage and amperage ratings. Standard wall switches Wire strip are rated 15A or V.

Voltage ratings of Screw terminals gauge , , and are considered to be identical for purposes of identification. For standard wall switch installations, choose a switch that has a wire gauge Wire compatibilty ratings rating of 12 or It has ON-OFF markings on the switch lever and is used to control a set of lights, Grounding Note: Position screw of the screw an appliance, or a receptacle from a single location.

When installing a single-pole switch, manufacturer check to make sure the ON marking shows when the switch lever is in the up position. In a correctly wired single-pole switch, a hot Switch lever Two screw terminals circuit wire is attached to each screw terminal. However, the color and number of wires inside the switch box will vary, depending on the location of the switch along the electrical circuit.

If two cables enter the box, then the switch lies in the middle of the circuit. In this installation, both of the hot wires attached to the switch are black.

If only one cable enters the box, then the switch lies at the end of the circuit. In this installation sometimes called a switch loop , one of the hot wires A single-pole switch is essentially an interruption in the black is black, but the other hot wire usually is white.

A white power supply wire that is opened or closed with the toggle. Single-pole switches are the simplest of all home wiring switches. Each cable has a white and a of a circuit. In this installation, both of to the switched device and a separate black insulated wire, plus a bare copper the insulated wires are hot.

The white neutral wire should be available in the grounding wire. The black wires are wire should be labeled with black tape switch box.

The terminals on the switch. The white wires grounding wire is connected to the are neutral and are joined together with switch grounding screw. Grounding wires are pigtailed to the switch. Three-way switches are always installed in pairs and are used to control a set of lights from two locations. One of the screw terminals on a three-way switch Traveler screw is darker than the others. This screw is the common terminals screw terminal. The position of the common screw terminal on the switch body may vary, depending on the manufacturer.

Before disconnecting a three-way switch, always label the wire that is connected to the common screw terminal. It must be reconnected to Common screw the common screw terminal on the new switch. The traveler terminals are interchangeable, so there is no need to label the wires attached to them.

Grounding screw Because three-way switches are installed in terminals pairs, it sometimes is difficult to determine which of the switches is causing a problem. The switch that receives greater use is more likely to fail, but you may need to inspect both switches to find the source of the problem.

The black wire from the two-wire cable is connected to the dark common screw terminal. The red and black wires from the three-wire cable are connected to the traveler screw terminals. The white neutral wires are joined together with a wire connector, and the grounding wires are pigtailed to the grounded metal box. Holding the the grounded metal box or to the bare copper grounding wire mounting strap carefully, pull the switch from the box. Be careful and touching the other probe to each screw terminal.

Tester not to touch the bare wires or screw terminals until they have should not glow. If it does, there is still power entering the box.

On most three-way switches, wires are interchangeable and can be Disconnect wires and remove switch. Test the switch for continuity. If it tests Or it may be labeled with the word Carefully tuck the wires into the box. If necessary, clip switch. Reconnect the grounding screw, cover plate.

Turn on the power at damaged wires and strip them. Four-way switches are always installed between a pair of three-way Line 1 screw terminals switches. This switch combination makes it possible to control a set of lights from three or more locations. Four-way switches are common in homes where large rooms contain multiple living areas, such as a kitchen opening into a dining room.

Switch problems in a four-way installation can be caused by loose Line 2 screw connections or worn parts in a four-way switch or in terminals one of the three-way switches facing page. In a typical installation, there will be a pair of three-wire cables that enter the box for the four-way switch.

With most switches, the white and red wires from one cable should be attached to the bottom or top pair of screw terminals, and the white and red wires from the other cable should be attached to the Note: Position remaining pair of screw terminals. However, not all of the screw terminals on a switches are configured the same way, and wiring switch may vary, configurations in the box may vary, so always study the depending on manufacturer. The red Switch variation: Some four-way switches have a wiring and white wires from one cable are attached to the top pair guide stamped on the back to help simplify installation.

For the of screw terminals, while the red and white wires from the switch shown above, one pair of color-matched circuit wires other cable are attached to the bottom screw terminals. In will be connected to the screw terminals marked LINE 1, while new switch wiring, the white wire should not supply current the other pair of wires will be attached to the screw terminals to the switched device, and a separate neutral wire should be marked LINE 2.

Holding the mounting strap carefully, pull the switch from them for nicks and scratches. If the box. Be careful not to touch any bare wires or screw terminals until they have necessary, clip damaged wires and strip been tested for power. Test for power by touching one probe of the neon circuit tester them.

Test the switch for continuity to the grounded metal box or bare copper grounding wire and touching the other pages 98 to Buy a replacement if probe to each of the screw terminals. The tester should not glow. If it does, there is still the switch tests faulty. Return to the panel, and turn off the correct circuit. Pigtail the grounding wires to the grounding screw.

Carefully tuck the wires inside the switch box, and then remount the switch and cover plate. Turn on power at the panel. It is used to control two light fixtures or appliances from the same switch box.

In most installations, both halves of the Tab switch are powered by the same circuit. In these single-circuit installations, three wires are connected To fixtures to the double switch. One wire, called the feed Ground wire which is hot , supplies power to both halves of the switch.

The other wires, called the switch leg, carry power out to the individual light fixtures Feed or appliances. In rare installations, each half of the switch Single-circuit wiring: Three black wires are attached to the is powered by a separate circuit.

In these switch. The black feed wire bringing power into the box is connected to the side of the switch that has a connecting tab.

The white neutral wires are connected photo below. Connecting tab To fixture Tab removed Ground Feed Separate-circuit wiring: Four black wires are attached to the switch. Feed wires Remove the connecting tab on from the power source are attached to the side of the switch that has a connecting a double switch when wired in a tab, and the connecting tab is removed photo, right.

Wires carrying power from the separate-circuit installation. The tab can switch to light fixtures or appliances are connected to the side of the switch that be removed with needlenose pliers or does not have a connecting tab.

White neutral wires are connected together with a a screwdriver. Pilot-light switches often are installed for Silver convenience if a light fixture or appliance cannot be seen from the switch location.

Basement lights, garage lights, and attic exhaust fans frequently are controlled To fixture by pilot-light switches. Gold A pilot-light switch requires a neutral wire Grounds connection. A switch box that contains a single two-wire cable has only hot wires and cannot be fitted with a pilot-light switch.

Feed wire Pilot-light switch wiring: Three wires are connected to the switch. One black wire is the feed wire that brings power into the box. It is connected to the brass gold screw terminal on the side of the switch that does not have a connecting tab. The white neutral wires are pigtailed to the silver screw terminal.

The black wire carrying power out to a light fixture or appliance is connected to the screw terminal on the side of the switch that has a connecting tab. In the most common installations, the receptacle is hot even when the switch is off photo, right. One of the hot wires is the feed wire that terminal on the side of the switch that does not have a brings power into the box.

It is connected to the side of the connecting tab. The other hot wire carries power out to the light fixture or appliance. It is connected to the brass screw terminal on the side that does not have a connecting tab. The white neutral wire is pigtailed to the silver screw terminal.

Dimmer switches pages 96 to 97 are used frequently to control light intensity in dining cannot be installed in switch boxes that have only one cable with two hot wires. Timer switches and time-delay was changed in to require an available neutral switches below are used to control light fixtures wire in newly-installed switch boxes.

Electronic switches If a specialty switch is not operating correctly, you provide added convenience and home security, and may be able to test it with a continuity tester. Timer they are easy to install. Electronic switches are switches and time-delay switches can be tested for durable, and they rarely need replacement. Most specialty switches have preattached wire With electronic switches, the manual switch can leads instead of screw terminals and are connected to be tested for continuity, but the automatic features circuit wires with wire connectors.

Some motor-driven cannot be tested. The remaining wire lead is the fans on and off automatically once each day. They are neutral lead. It must be connected to any neutral commonly used to control outdoor light fixtures. A switch box that contains only one Timer switches have three preattached wire cable has no neutral wires, so it cannot be fitted with leads.

The black wire lead is connected to the hot a timer switch. Countdown timer switch. This Occupancy sensor.

Many smart Programmable timer switch. A rocker-type switch gives you the option switches incorporate a motion detector dial-type timer allows you to program to easily program the switch to shut that will switch the lights on if they the switch to turn on for specific time off after a specified time: from 5 to 60 sense movement in the room and will periods at designated times of day minutes.

Garage lights or basement also shut them off when no movement within a hour cycle. Security lights, lights are good applications: anywhere is detected for a period of time.

The space heaters, towel warmers, and you want the light to stay on long model shown above also has a dimmer radiant floors are typical applications. These switches often are used to control vent fans. This lets you turn on lights, heat lamps, Spring-wound timer switch. A relatively simple device, this and other loads for a designated amount of time 10 to 60 timer switch functions exactly like a kitchen timer, employing a minutes with one easy push of a button.

The green LED at hand-turned dial to and spring mechanism to shut the switch the bottom of this unit provides a readout of how much time off in increments up to 15 minutes. The model shown is not compatible with fluorescent ballasts. Daylight sensor switch. This switch automatically turns on Backlit countdown timer. This digital switch lets you when light levels drop below a proscribed level. It can also be program lights or other devices to stay on for up to 24 hours programmed as an occupancy sensor to shut off when the and then shut off automatically.